<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?><rss version="2.0"
	xmlns:content="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/content/"
	xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/"
	xmlns:atom="http://www.w3.org/2005/Atom"
	xmlns:sy="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/syndication/"
		>
<channel>
	<title>Comments for CleanWiki</title>
	<atom:link href="http://cleanwiki.com/comments/feed/" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
	<link>http://cleanwiki.com</link>
	<description>Providing you safe and effective cleaning methods.</description>
	<lastBuildDate>Thu, 26 Apr 2012 13:58:58 +0000</lastBuildDate>
	<sy:updatePeriod>hourly</sy:updatePeriod>
	<sy:updateFrequency>1</sy:updateFrequency>
	<generator>http://wordpress.org/?v=3.3.1</generator>
	<item>
		<title>Comment on Leather Identification by Scott</title>
		<link>http://cleanwiki.com/general-posts/leather-identification/comment-page-1/#comment-405</link>
		<dc:creator>Scott</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 26 Apr 2012 13:58:58 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://cleanwiki.com/?p=683#comment-405</guid>
		<description>I&#039;d be glad to share some additional information on leather cleaning. Send me an email with your contact information. scottw@bridgewatercorp.net</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I&#8217;d be glad to share some additional information on leather cleaning. Send me an email with your contact information. <a href="mailto:scottw@bridgewatercorp.net">scottw@bridgewatercorp.net</a></p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Comment on Leather Identification by kevin</title>
		<link>http://cleanwiki.com/general-posts/leather-identification/comment-page-1/#comment-404</link>
		<dc:creator>kevin</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 26 Apr 2012 06:27:29 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://cleanwiki.com/?p=683#comment-404</guid>
		<description>I cleaned my first leather couch today. white leather so you could see the results straight away. I&#039;d like to learn more about this for sure.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I cleaned my first leather couch today. white leather so you could see the results straight away. I&#8217;d like to learn more about this for sure.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Comment on Cleaning Agents and Stainless Steel Appliances by pitterpillson</title>
		<link>http://cleanwiki.com/general-posts/cleaning-agents-and-stainless-steel-appliances/comment-page-1/#comment-402</link>
		<dc:creator>pitterpillson</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 20 Feb 2012 07:01:38 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://cleanwiki.com/?p=450#comment-402</guid>
		<description>Concern &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.acorntiles.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ceramic Tiles&lt;/a&gt; home improve task news being look for wonderful. I know many useful news collection from here here! I have like this site.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Concern <a href="http://www.acorntiles.com/" rel="nofollow">Ceramic Tiles</a> home improve task news being look for wonderful. I know many useful news collection from here here! I have like this site.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Comment on We Are too Poor to Buy Cheap Carpet by We Are too Poor to Buy Cheap Carpet &#124; CleanWiki &#124; com-floor.com</title>
		<link>http://cleanwiki.com/general-posts/we-are-too-poor-to-buy-cheap-carpet/comment-page-1/#comment-72</link>
		<dc:creator>We Are too Poor to Buy Cheap Carpet &#124; CleanWiki &#124; com-floor.com</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 16 Sep 2011 02:04:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://cleanwiki.com/?p=554#comment-72</guid>
		<description>[...] We Are too Poor to Buy Cheap Carpet &#124; CleanWiki        sharemacro     var sharemacro_cbid = &quot;block34&quot;; var sharemacro_preset = &quot;ui-tooltip-light [...]</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>[...] We Are too Poor to Buy Cheap Carpet | CleanWiki        sharemacro     var sharemacro_cbid = &quot;block34&quot;; var sharemacro_preset = &quot;ui-tooltip-light [...]</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Comment on We Are too Poor to Buy Cheap Carpet by We Are too Poor to Buy Cheap Carpet &#124; CleanWiki &#124; Flooring Installation</title>
		<link>http://cleanwiki.com/general-posts/we-are-too-poor-to-buy-cheap-carpet/comment-page-1/#comment-71</link>
		<dc:creator>We Are too Poor to Buy Cheap Carpet &#124; CleanWiki &#124; Flooring Installation</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 16 Sep 2011 02:02:59 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://cleanwiki.com/?p=554#comment-71</guid>
		<description>[...] more here: We Are too Poor to Buy Cheap Carpet &#124; CleanWiki          Posted in: News &#160; Tags: Black,, christian, christian-myspace, delighted-black, [...]</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>[...] more here: We Are too Poor to Buy Cheap Carpet | CleanWiki          Posted in: News &nbsp; Tags: Black,, christian, christian-myspace, delighted-black, [...]</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Comment on Cleaning Agents and Stainless Steel Appliances by TheExpert</title>
		<link>http://cleanwiki.com/general-posts/cleaning-agents-and-stainless-steel-appliances/comment-page-1/#comment-69</link>
		<dc:creator>TheExpert</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 10 Sep 2011 05:10:11 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://cleanwiki.com/?p=450#comment-69</guid>
		<description>With Clean Steel, you get the look of a stainless steel refrigerator (and other appliances), without the fingerprints or the inability to hold magnets. And cleanup is a breeze. No special cleaners are required; just a damp cloth. It seems to be the fashion now, and HGTV talks about it as the needed thing for any kitchen upgrade. I guess fashion never last forever, but I wonder if people really think it&#039;s that beautiful. To me, it smacks of a cold, industrial, commercial kitchen, where beauty isn&#039;t top priority and practicality is. In a house, it doesn&#039;t seem appropriate to me. Just wanting to get some of your own personal viewpoints on the matter.
</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>With Clean Steel, you get the look of a stainless steel refrigerator (and other appliances), without the fingerprints or the inability to hold magnets. And cleanup is a breeze. No special cleaners are required; just a damp cloth. It seems to be the fashion now, and HGTV talks about it as the needed thing for any kitchen upgrade. I guess fashion never last forever, but I wonder if people really think it&#8217;s that beautiful. To me, it smacks of a cold, industrial, commercial kitchen, where beauty isn&#8217;t top priority and practicality is. In a house, it doesn&#8217;t seem appropriate to me. Just wanting to get some of your own personal viewpoints on the matter.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Comment on Using easy carpet repair tricks to open new doors by vegascleaningservice</title>
		<link>http://cleanwiki.com/general-posts/using-easy-carpet-repair-tricks-to-open-new-doors/comment-page-1/#comment-67</link>
		<dc:creator>vegascleaningservice</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 15 Aug 2011 16:47:09 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://cleanwiki.com/?p=369#comment-67</guid>
		<description>I work for a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vegascarpetcleaningpros.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Las Vegas Carpet Cleaing&lt;/a&gt; business. When you take a look at some of the massive carpets at some of the casinos and bars here its no wonder why we don&#039;t make a move towards carpet repair. I&#039;m sure its not as easy as you guys make it out to be, but kudos nonetheless!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I work for a <a href="http://www.vegascarpetcleaningpros.com" rel="nofollow">Las Vegas Carpet Cleaing</a> business. When you take a look at some of the massive carpets at some of the casinos and bars here its no wonder why we don&#8217;t make a move towards carpet repair. I&#8217;m sure its not as easy as you guys make it out to be, but kudos nonetheless!</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Comment on Dealing with Urine Contamination by Scott</title>
		<link>http://cleanwiki.com/general-posts/dealing-with-urine-contamination/comment-page-1/#comment-56</link>
		<dc:creator>Scott</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 20 Jun 2011 14:29:06 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://cleanwiki.com/?p=169#comment-56</guid>
		<description>Jim, You have an advantage going for you here. Human urine is not as concentrated as animal urine. The volume of liquid can be equal or more than pets will eliminate, but when the water evaporates there is less material that needs to be neutralized.

It is often possible to saturate a carpet and pad even getting the wood subfloor wet without danger to the wood because the Water Claw is able to recover so much of the water. The wood only stays damp a short time. So, if speed is a factor, you can still consider using an oxidizer like &lt;strong&gt;PETZONE&lt;/strong&gt; to break down the urine present and remove the source of the odor.

If time is not a critical factor, and you prefer to stick with a procedure that uses less moisture and does not get the wood wet (or as wet), then I suggest using &lt;strong&gt;Bio-Modifier&lt;/strong&gt;.

This bio-enzyme product uses natural enzymes to decompose urine to basic components. The action is not as fast as an oxidizer, but requires much less moisture.

Apply&lt;strong&gt; Bio-Modifier&lt;/strong&gt; so that it reaches all the places the urine did. You have to reach the urine to break it down.  This may mean that only the face yarns get wet or you may have to also wet the backing and the cushion. Keep in mind that urine may spread out as it goes into deeper layers of the flooring.

Even though you will be getting carpet and perhaps other layers wet, the amount of moisture reaching the wood subfloor will be significantly less than is required with oxidizing.

Depending upon the volume of urine present, the enzymes can take anywhere from 30 minutes to 2 days to digest all the contamination. I feel comfortable leaving &lt;strong&gt;Bio-Modifier&lt;/strong&gt; to work overnight, 8  to 12 hours for most jobs.

Apply the &lt;strong&gt;Bio-Modifier&lt;/strong&gt;. After giving it necessary time to work, use hot water extraction to rinse the carpet.  If required, you can also apply a heavy mist of &lt;strong&gt;Hydrocide&lt;/strong&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;Hydrocide Xtreme&lt;/strong&gt; (diluted according to label directions) to finish off any remaining odor.

If you choose to use oxidizer or bio-enzyme, urine is being broken down and decomposed. This is similar to the natural process that occurs over weeks and months. You have sped it up to minutes or hours. But odor is still released during the decomposition process. Expect odor to be present until the process is completed. GOOD VENTILATION is very important during either process.

Scott Warrington</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Jim, You have an advantage going for you here. Human urine is not as concentrated as animal urine. The volume of liquid can be equal or more than pets will eliminate, but when the water evaporates there is less material that needs to be neutralized.</p>
<p>It is often possible to saturate a carpet and pad even getting the wood subfloor wet without danger to the wood because the Water Claw is able to recover so much of the water. The wood only stays damp a short time. So, if speed is a factor, you can still consider using an oxidizer like <strong>PETZONE</strong> to break down the urine present and remove the source of the odor.</p>
<p>If time is not a critical factor, and you prefer to stick with a procedure that uses less moisture and does not get the wood wet (or as wet), then I suggest using <strong>Bio-Modifier</strong>.</p>
<p>This bio-enzyme product uses natural enzymes to decompose urine to basic components. The action is not as fast as an oxidizer, but requires much less moisture.</p>
<p>Apply<strong> Bio-Modifier</strong> so that it reaches all the places the urine did. You have to reach the urine to break it down.  This may mean that only the face yarns get wet or you may have to also wet the backing and the cushion. Keep in mind that urine may spread out as it goes into deeper layers of the flooring.</p>
<p>Even though you will be getting carpet and perhaps other layers wet, the amount of moisture reaching the wood subfloor will be significantly less than is required with oxidizing.</p>
<p>Depending upon the volume of urine present, the enzymes can take anywhere from 30 minutes to 2 days to digest all the contamination. I feel comfortable leaving <strong>Bio-Modifier</strong> to work overnight, 8  to 12 hours for most jobs.</p>
<p>Apply the <strong>Bio-Modifier</strong>. After giving it necessary time to work, use hot water extraction to rinse the carpet.  If required, you can also apply a heavy mist of <strong>Hydrocide</strong> or <strong>Hydrocide Xtreme</strong> (diluted according to label directions) to finish off any remaining odor.</p>
<p>If you choose to use oxidizer or bio-enzyme, urine is being broken down and decomposed. This is similar to the natural process that occurs over weeks and months. You have sped it up to minutes or hours. But odor is still released during the decomposition process. Expect odor to be present until the process is completed. GOOD VENTILATION is very important during either process.</p>
<p>Scott Warrington</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Comment on Dealing with Urine Contamination by Jim</title>
		<link>http://cleanwiki.com/general-posts/dealing-with-urine-contamination/comment-page-1/#comment-55</link>
		<dc:creator>Jim</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 19 Jun 2011 18:30:15 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://cleanwiki.com/?p=169#comment-55</guid>
		<description>Scott,
    My problem is human urine odor (no stain) at the top 3 steps of a staircase. Short shag .thick backing but no pad over 5/4 wood . Stairs are over clients kitchen.
  Do not want to soak due to wood .Have water claw tho . Air movers would be tough also due to top of staircase.
  Any suggestions ?
 Thank You,JIM</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Scott,<br />
    My problem is human urine odor (no stain) at the top 3 steps of a staircase. Short shag .thick backing but no pad over 5/4 wood . Stairs are over clients kitchen.<br />
  Do not want to soak due to wood .Have water claw tho . Air movers would be tough also due to top of staircase.<br />
  Any suggestions ?<br />
 Thank You,JIM</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Comment on Back to the Basics of Spot and Stain Removal by eco-pro advanced</title>
		<link>http://cleanwiki.com/general-posts/back-to-the-basics-of-spot-and-stain-removal/comment-page-1/#comment-53</link>
		<dc:creator>eco-pro advanced</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 09 Jun 2011 05:10:29 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://cleanwiki.com/?p=459#comment-53</guid>
		<description>Good stuff, I am a humble rookie who values these post. Thanks</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Good stuff, I am a humble rookie who values these post. Thanks</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
</channel>
</rss>

